Thursday, December 13, 2012

Bangkok

Katzman at Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Bangkok

Bangkok—a five day trip to present my paper


"Becoming patient: a path to effective participation with chronic terminal cancer "

 at a nursing conference

International Council on Women's Health Issues
19th Congress, Bangkok, Thailand
November 14-16, 2012

 
The whole trip was great, starting with meeting a courteous Japanese on the shuttle to the airport. Ayumi announced Bangkok his destination, and at the airport we walked together. “Where should I exchange money? How much?” I asked.  “In Bangkok, at the airport--  About a hundred or two hundred dollars,” he replied.

Then he followed the business class line.  “We will find each other again,” he waved.

Boarding, he looked around, but did not see me.

At the Bangkok airport, business card in hand, I introduced myself. 

He agreed that the TRUE brand cell phone chip was the best.  He obligingly said to call if I needed anything. 

The hotel shuttle greets me, and shows me to a cell phone provider; I insist on the TRUE, and we go to that booth.

The ride to the hotel is uneventful, although the infamous afternoon rush hour is on.


FIRST FOOD
Tuesday
Arriving late afternoon, I will have my first hotel breakfast not until 6; the concierge said yes, there were food stalls on the small street next to the hotel that were safe.  A fruit slice at a cart tasted chalky.  At the end where the road turned, a woman welcomed my glance at the preparation activity of food by a man.  Perhaps the young couple owned the business. 
Drinks? 
dosage instructions in Japanese
I pointed at a bottle of water.

The rickety table near the Music TV had a view of bicycles, pedestrians, and motorcycles entering a narrower street.  I waited; the time was just long enough to feel comfortably in pace with the place.  A noise like a drum roll was not a musical instrument; perhaps a recycling sound of cans?  The food arrived:  a plate of sliced, broiled pork with a hot dipping sauce, a basket of sticky rice and a plate of cucumbers and raw green beans.  Tasty and satisfying.  About US $2. (someone more confident with currency exchange rates told me that the 75 Baht I paid was about 2 dollars; I used this as my standard conversion factor.)   Opened 4 pm to 3 am.  I was the only customer; the place had just opened.

Wednesday
Hotel breakfast.  I left the exotic choices for lunches and dinners.  I ate fried eggs, whole-wheat toast, juice.  A soy soup:  hot soymilk with sugar to be sprinkled on top.  A few croissants.  Many introductions by the early goers; table-hopping.  The conference book of proceedings was opened many times as “participants” promoted our presentations.

THE PRINCESS
Opening ceremony.
The princess is coming!

Yes, a real princess, and what a princess.  A white carpet at the hotel entry.  We some 600 conference-goers, mostly nurses, waited in the Ballroom, instructed on when to rise and how to bow and curtsy.  The princess, a lawyer and women’s health activist, talked about her work with female prisoners.

A question from the audience:  What can nurses do [to help the project of the princess]?
The princess answered:  Nurses are the first responders to women who are arrested, or who are victims.  The criminal justice system needs documentation of injury and complaint.

I poked the South African sitting next to me.  She had shown me the abstract of the presentation she would give on Friday:  the document filled out by nurses in South Africa in cases of allegations of sexual assault.

“How can I contact the princess?” she asked, modestly joking.

Lunch served by the hotel.  Rotating platters of Thai food. Fruit dessert.

Afternoon session about Media, law, women’s health.

The moderator mentions buying silk in the hotel vestibule.

I shop after the session:  silk scarves and a bracelet.

I put up my poster at the appointed time, 5- 6 pm; it will be seen on Thursday.  A nurse from Taiwan is unrolling her poster, and offers to help me assemble my 24 sheets of paper onto a white base.  I have brought my poster map, stick-on glue stick, and assorted actual evidence of my becoming patient (prescription envelopes with dosages in Japanese  ; finger cots that allowed me to play piano during days of painful nails; 5 x 7 photos of my red-edged swollen toes and fingers).

Finger cots
Katzman with poster


DINNER
I tell the Taiwanese nurse about the food stand down the street.  We sortie.  She recognizes the pot-on-pot dish.  It looks like two clay planting pots that are curved.  The top pot holds water; the bottom pot holds charcoal.  She cooked.  The waitress brought platters of fish, meat, and vegetables.

THURSDAY
Keynote speeches all morning. 

The first speaker, a Thai doctor named Krisana Kraisintu, told the story of her life, including leaving Thailand in 2002 to practice medicine in Africa, which led to building the first manufacturing plant for medicines in Africa with a Chinese pharmacist.  Self-effacing, she alluded to a movie made of her exploits.

Thai pharmaceutical consultant Krisana Kraisintu for provides access to life-saving AIDS medicine to disadvantaged people around the world.

Inspiring talk by Nancy Glass about a sustainable economy project in Congo involved Pigs.  Pigs become more pigs; women are allowed to own pigs; gardens/crops prosper.

An Australian, Jon Adams, speaks about acupuncture and childbirth, citing his own experience.  His wife refused doctors’ offer “to go in and get it,” and acupuncture resulted in the healthy birth of their first child.

I have introduced myself to Jon Adams, and agree to send him the articles I discovered about Military Acupuncture, a topic that surprises him as much as it did me.

Adams speaks about the need to bring acupuncture into the academic discussions especially about how people make decisions about health care.  60% of people use complementary and alternative medicine, but do not disclose their use to doctors.  “Don’t deny what 60 % of people do,” Adams says.

LUNCH
I stand by my poster.  One of the South Africans asks me to walk her through my poster.  She asks if “shredding fingers” is in my paper to be published in January; I say yes; she says that she will use my paper in the class she teaches, and I agree that she can give the students my email address.

A nurse sees my poster and tells of the disappearance of her Stage 4 cancer 30 years ago.  We agree on the transformative power of cancer on the personality, but do not recommend that route to a young nursing student who is her student.

Afternoon concurrent sessions; I miss the beginning because there is still some traffic in the poster room.

I tell someone that I consider using my academic paper about Becoming Patient for a class text, as I have for other academic papers I have written.  “Don’t,” she advises.  “I have talked about my own health in nursing classes, but I always say that I am talking about ‘a friend.’  Young students might be emotionally compromised to know that their teacher is the subject.”

Another nurse advises, “Go home to family when the end is near.  Death can be very lonely.”

I go between sessions on the 14th and 3rd floor, mostly attending the Track 5 papers about Chronic Illness.

I take down my poster at 4.30 PM and swim.  The banquet starts at 6.30.

Dancing lions and fish and monkeys are performed by costumed nursing students at a Thai university who also take part in the academics of the conference.

I am well tended by a couple of the Thai nursing students who are not in costume.

Friday
A stomachache plagues my sleep, and I vomit a large volume of liquid at dawn, the solid component evidently squid. 

I cannot eat breakfast, and several glasses of juice come right back up; I had prepared a plastic bag.  Shivering with chills, hearing only selected words from the speaker—“not their fault,” etc—I leave the room, accompanied by a breakfast friend.  I ask a nurse’s advice:  “lie down and sip a bottle of water; you have to be able to keep clear liquids down.”  She takes my room number.

I sleep outdoors by the pool for two hours, and drink a liter of water.

I re-join the conference for lunch, happily.

I hear a variety of concurrent session presentations.   There is a fascinating talk about the IRIS project to “improve safety for survivors of gender-based violence.”  An American lawyer presents a study comparing health protection for prostitutes in Nevada, the Netherlands, and Germany.

Closing ceremonies.  I see myself dancing with two lions (costumed) in the movie production of conference visual  highlights.  South Africa is announced as the venue of the 2014 conference; the South African contingent sings and dances.

Boat ride:  our boat meanders
Outboard engine
Katzman, Shirley, Temple of the Emerald  Buddha
I call Ayumi’s office again, and he is in!  He is leaving Bangkok that night, however, and so cannot go sightseeing, but recommends the ‘Floating Market.’

I swim.  I call about a massage; all booked for the evening in the hotel.  I talk to concierge about sightseeing tours for the morrow.  He shows well-thumbed plastic sheet with various tours.  He says I would have to book this evening for tours leaving Saturday at 8 am.  I decide to go without the tour, and hope for company.

I ask about local massages along the small street.  The concierge tells me the massage businesses are trustworthy, and quotes a price.  The massage place I go into succeeds in convincing me of the value of a 2-hour massage.  It was great!  Every muscle was relaxed when I left at 11 pm.
 
Saturday

BREAKFAST

Most conferees have departed.  About ten people remain.  As I was about to consign myself to sightseeing alone, the South Africans arrive.

Shirley and I leave the hotel around 11 am, headed for the public transit a block away.   I want to take a boat ride on the river.  We get as far as the transit transfer; Shirley asks directions, and we get diverted to a private boat service.  Shirley negotiates price (“Don’t mention again that you have American dollars!” she tells me.)  The boat meanders; very crowded boats with outboard motors pass us.  We are happy.  Our guide stops so we can walk around the Temple of Dawn.  He leaves us at another landing, and I am not ready to return to the hotel and we accept the guidance of an enterprising woman to tour the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.

DINNER

Shirley and I returned to the hotel around 5 pm.  The sun was setting.  A loud thunderstorm hit.  We watched the concierge skillfully field questions about jewelry shopping.


I was hungry.  I had plans.

Shirley, also hungry, agreed to accompany me to dinner.

The cook at the street shop holds a root vegetable in one hand. He’s already peeled it.  The fruit is hard and white.  He cuts it by wielding a 5” bladed knife into it attacking on the point.

“I wonder what vegetable?” I ask Shirley.
“Zucchini?” she guesses.
‘No, it’s too hard.”

Finally her fish arrives, after the waitress took off on the bicycle and after profuse apologies for lateness.

The fish was large, flat, had been grilled; the meat was white.

 I swam, and slept, awakening to a breakfast of napkinned bread from the previous morning and yoghurt.

 RETURN

Ayumi, the gracious Japanese, had sent me email with his cell phone number, but I hadn’t checked my email all week.