Saturday, October 3, 2009

Murder, snakes, gambling--in the garden!

A volunteer at the Kyoto Botanical Garden last week pointed out local lore. The thorn on the Ninja Star Tree recalls--in shape and size-- a weapon thrown by a ferocious deadly band of warriors.
The gourd on a vine seems to snake along the ground.
Finally, the so-called gambling tree drops bark in large pieces, its exterior wealth peeling like throwing away money. If I understood correctly.

Monday, September 21, 2009

Forgotten parasol


Hanging parasol
Forgotten with kiwi vines
Afternoon arbor

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Fall Equinox

The autumn equinox at sunrise

and the summer solstic sunrise


photos made easy by sleeping on the rooftop.
The precession of the equinoxes joined, too, by dedicated digital camera (canon powershop A590) which was preceded by a cell phone camera (Vodafone 802SE).

Mt. Hiei is the tallest in the range of eastern Kyoto at 848.1 metres (2,782 ft).

Friday, September 18, 2009

Brain glue


Lunch in the garden of a restaurant in a Kyoto temple, Daitoku-ji. Something rectangular, deep fried, served on sticks like long thick pine needles.

“What is it?”

The Zen vegetarian waitress returns. “Gu ru ten.”

I expect a Japanese word, and the conversational part of my brain won’t compute. But quietly I see another part of my brain spelling out “gluten”.

She tries another word. “Fu.”

“Barley? Rice?”

“No,” she answers clearly. “Ofu.”

This is definitely a Japanese word and I can remember a few hours.

At home, I consult Japanese dictionaries without success.

But “vegetarian zen” search of the internet brings up “wheat gluten,” “macrobiotic,” “fu (not to be found in Japanese dictionaries),” and so forth. Success.

By the way, the three sticks of gluten sustained me well past my usual dinner time.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Jazz in Japan


A duo perform jazz on September 5 in Kyoto. Above the restaurant, the proprietor has a third floor music room. A dozen folding chairs are set up. Armadillo guitars hang on the wall; lessons take place once a week.

Today, the musicians are a female Japanese vocalist and a male guitarist.

The singer explains in Japanese the two meanings of MEAN in “Mean to Me.”
“You're mean to me…
You shouldn't, for can't you see
What you mean to me.”

For another tune, she first explains that there are three sets of answers “Whatever will be, will be” in “Que Sera, Sera.”

A guest singer from the audience belts out Route 66, later asking my opinion of her pronunciation. The pronunciation and swing beat were great, and I would have liked to extend my compliment by saying that we Americans often riddle ourselves with the lyrics.

“Well it goes through St. Louis, Joplin, Missouri.
Oklahoma City looks mighty pretty.
See Amarillo, Gallup, New Mexico.
Flagstaff Arizona, don't forget Winona.
Kingman, Barstow, San Bernardino….”

Encore request. “Got any more Billie Holiday?”
The vocalist calls out chords—in English—to the guitarist. They play an inspired, “Lover man, where can you be?”

Friday, August 14, 2009

My birthday


My birthday.

I can get into the Kyoto botanical garden free. The two or three dollar entry fee is waived, including for the greenhouse. I arrive at the early opening time, 7.30, for morning glory days. I show my identification card and say breezily to the guard, “Toshi o totte,” slang for “aged.” I notice others of my bent.

Westerners tend toward decades, arbitrarily, discussing a person’s years. In Japan, however, 60 signifies second childhood, I was told, because of being 5 times the 12 year astrological cycle.


In my Japanese language lesson, a grandmother appears on her birthday. The 88th birthday is called "rice celebration" because of the pun in kanji, lingual symbols from China used to write Japanese:

/\ eight

\ | /
----- rice
/ | \

米   rice


The 99th is "white birthday." The pun subtracts a horizontal line --"one" in kanji--from "a hundred" to arrive at a kanji that means "white."
百  hundred 
minus 一  minus one


becomes 白  white


Mr. Kokawa, a professor whose specialty is dictionaries, agrees that word play on kanji is very popular in Japan.

“Double numbers are…” He searches for the word.

“Auspicious?”

“Yes, auspicious.”

He draws the kanji for “seven” three times and says it is slang for joyfulness, a homonym for yellow.

“Therefore, 77 is yellow celebration,” he explains. “Forget about the third 7. It is just there to make the pun.”

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Hike in Osaka

Wanting to hike in Kyoto, not fluent in reading Japanese maps, trail markers, or cell phone GPS, I found a group called Kansai Ramblers. I call a phone number. The next hike? Tomorrow.

Well organized, a group of about 30 uses a portable bearing sign. In English, a paper with a hand pointing directions is held by small rocks at forks in the trail.

“People were dropping like flies at the last hike along here.” I wonder about first aid. The July weather is not as bad as it could have been. A few people besides me are native English speakers. Every one talks a lot during hiking. I am not used to hiking with so many people who move so close to one another. Distance pointer shows some 10 directions the viewpoint where we eat lunch.

Lunch rest. We brought lunches. Peanut butter and jelly for me, many box lunches among the others. A guy napped. This place name translates to "Tail of the Sword."

“Here is the summit,” a fellow American announces. The geological symbol is a concrete block about a cubic foot with a cross etched onto its top. Surprised, I thought the lunch spot was the top.

“It is good to hear the birds here,” the American tells me as we descend alongside a fence. “This is the Dioxin Dump site.” We are in a town called Nose, Japan, in northern Osaka.

“When was that?” I ask. “About 1997? I remember that Japanese friends went to a community meeting about dioxin near their home in Tokyo.”

“Right. There were compulsory citizen meetings.”

He asks three Japanese in Japanese, but nobody recalls the date.

There is a hot spring. About 4 pm, the ten of us who stayed for the onsen entered the building, paid the seven dollar fee, and went into the bath. The inside bath for women is crowded. I stand five minute wait. A cool bath and hot brown mineral bath inside, outside a clear hot pool. Nympaides.

Someone asks my name. “A man called from over there,” she says, indicating the other side of the bathing area hidden from sight.

Is someone signaling time to leave after less than 30 minutes?

I cannot identify any of the women with whom I hiked, and rather than staying for another round of baths, I exit the area and solicit help when I do not see any of my fellow hikers. A message is sent into the male and females bathers, who reply, yes, we are still here, see you in half an hour.

A train ride, a Chinese dinner, and one of the die-hard group buys a bag of ice cream sticks for the train back into town.